Buying a luxury watch comes with a lot of different considerations. Not only do you want a watch that is comfortable and functional, but you also want it to look great, too. There are dozens of different factors that can go into the look of a watch, but the bezel is among the most important. A great-looking bezel can really amplify the aesthetics of your watch.
Just as importantly, many bezels serve a purpose beyond mere aesthetics. Depending on the type of watch you have, the bezel may have the functionality to ensure that you get the most out of your watch — whether you’re diving under the sea or just taking a stroll through the park! After all, why invest in a luxury watch if it cannot fulfill its desired functions?
However, this still begs a few important questions about the nature of the watch bezel. For example, what does a watch bezel do? What materials are used to make watch bezels? Finally, what types of bezels are available to consumers? We will answer all of these questions and more, but first, let’s look at exactly what a watch bezel is and what purpose it serves.
What Is a Watch Bezel?
A watch bezel is simply the ring surrounding the face of your watch. The bezel can vary in size, design, material, and functionality. Though many bezels are made from the same material as the watch casing (like stainless steel), many are made from other materials, like another type of metal, aluminum, or even ceramic. The material can change both the look and texture of your bezel, as well as the monetary value of your watch.
Some watch bezels rotate (we will go into more detail about rotating bezels below), while others are fixed in place. Typically, a fixed bezel is used on watches with fewer functions outside of simple timekeeping, though this is not always the case. A fixed watch bezel can still work in tandem with the markers on your watch face to help you carry out a wide variety of tasks.
That said, the most important function of a fixed or rotating watch bezel is the protection of the watch's face. Most dials are made using more delicate materials (like glass), which means that direct contact with external objects could easily cause damage. Thus, the bezel works as a buffer that completely surrounds the perimeter of the dial to ensure that the watch can continue functioning without taking unnecessary damage.
Rotating Bezel Watches
Just as the name implies, a rotating bezel is a ring around the face of the watch that can be turned by hand. Some bezels are turned with a watch crown, while others are turned simply by pressing against the bezel itself. Different types of rotating bezels offer different functionality, from enhanced timekeeping to more accurate mathematical functions.
Consequently, when it comes to functionality, rotating bezels are far more useful than fixed bezels. This is particularly true if you need to use your watch while diving. All diving watches feature some kind of rotating bezel to allow divers to time their ascent and calculate how much oxygen they have left.
In addition to their practicality, rotating bezels also come in two basic formats: uni-directional bezel and bi-directional bezel. A uni-directional rotating bezel can only be rotated counterclockwise. This makes it simple and straightforward to measure the passage of time over a set period. Therefore, diver watches utilize uni-directional bezels.
Alternatively, a bi-directional rotating bezel has the ability to rotate clockwise or counterclockwise. While this allows for even greater functionality, it can also increase the complexity of the device. As a result, bi-directional bezels are often reserved for mathematical calculations like averaging speeds and distances.
Dive Watch Bezel
As discussed above, rotating bezels are particularly useful for divers. Even if you just go diving for recreational purposes, a dive watch bezel can ensure that you remain safe. This is due to the fact that the rotating bezel allows you to calculate approximately how much oxygen you have left.
You might be asking yourself: why use a watch when you can just read the meter on your oxygen tank? It’s a fair question, but when it comes to your safety underwater, you should never take any chances. Using a dive watch with a rotating bezel gives you a solid backup if your oxygen meter suddenly stops working.
When preparing to dive, you should know exactly how long your oxygen will last. For example, let’s say that your oxygen will last for exactly 15 minutes. You can set your bezel to the 15-minute mark. This way, you can simply look at your watch to know how much time you have left.
A dive watch bezel is even more important when you’re ready to make your ascent. Due to changes in pressure, you cannot ascend from a deep dive too quickly. Instead, you need to rise a few meters at a time and then wait. A bezel allows you to count up your ascent, ensuring that you do not rise to the surface too quickly.
Compass Bezel Watches
Bezels are not always just for measuring time. If you are the adventurous type, a compass bezel watch could end up being a lifesaver. Rather than featuring standard 12-hour or 24-hour markers, a compass bezel usually features the four cardinal directions (North, South, East, and West), as well as individual degrees, from 0 to 360.
In addition to featuring different markers, a compass bezel is always bi-directional, unlike most dive watch bezels, which are almost always uni-directional. That said, many people are unaware of how to use a compass bezel. It has become a lost skill thanks to modern smartphones and similar devices. However, if you’re lost in the woods without any technology, you’ll be glad to know how it works.
To make use of the compass bezel, you need to know if you are in the Northern or Southern Hemisphere. Assuming you are in the Northern Hemisphere, you will point the hour hand in the direction of the sun (while keeping the watch parallel to the ground). Then, you simply rotate the bezel so that South is halfway between the hour hand and the 12-hour marker on your dial. This will give you the correct directions for North, South, East, and West. You can use the same trick in the Southern Hemisphere, but simply use the North marker instead of the South marker.
Tachymeter Bezel
You’ve probably heard of tachymeter watches before. They are extremely popular among athletes. Why? Because they allow you to measure speed over a fixed period of time or time over a fixed distance. This is all thanks to the tachymeter bezel.
In essence, the bezel functions as a stopwatch on a traditional, analog watch. Tachymeter bezels typically have speed markers and tachymeter watches feature a third hand to measure how much time has passed. Once you begin your stopwatch, you can simply look at the bezel after a set period has passed (or a set distance has been reached) to measure the speed or distance traveled.
GMT Bezel
Much like a tachymeter watch, a GMT watch features additional hands and a special bezel to calculate specific measurements. However, in the case of a GMT bezel, it measures the difference between time zones or calculates the correct time when entering a new time zone. Either way, you will need to know the number of hours between two time zones to set the GMT bezel correctly. All you have to do is rotate the bezel by the number of hours between the two time zones, making it easier to know the correct time while traveling.
Countdown Bezel
A countdown bezel is far simpler than most other types of wristwatch bezels. It simply provides a counterclockwise, 60-minute interface to let you see how long certain actions or events take. In essence, a countdown bezel watch is like a stopwatch that does not require you to set anything. You just watch the bezel to see how much time has counted down!
Other Types of Watch Bezels
Finally, it’s important to note that the bezels listed above do not account for every type of bezel. A few additional examples include the plain bezel, which does not have any visual markers or functionality. Alternatively, a diamond bezel is bejeweled with diamonds to add a sense of elegance and flash to your timepiece.
Bezels can also fulfill a wide range of uncommon functions. For example, a pulsometer bezel allows you to measure your heart rate, while a telemeter bezel can help you calculate the distance between you and a foreign object. A yacht-time bezel gives you better timekeeping control at sea, while a slide rule bezel can help you do various mathematical calculations. Finally, you can also use the decimal bezel, which divides every minute into one hundred parts for easier time conversions.
We hope you found our watch bezel guide useful! If you’d like to learn more about buying a luxury watch, feel free to contact the experts at Ashford today!
