Acting as both the window and guard of your timepiece, the watch crystal takes the hardest blows and most of the everyday wear and tear. Protecting the dial and face, there is an ongoing debate about what type of watch crystal is best.
How should a shopper choose? Well, that all depends. Ask yourself what activities you plan to accomplish while wearing your watch. Another important question- what is your budget? To extend the life of a watch, crystals are made of different materials that match a watch owner’s preferences and expected usage. Today we will examine the different types of watch crystals and explain the pros and cons of each category. Armed with insider info, you will be able to make the most educated choice in your search for the perfect timepiece.
Sapphire Watch Crystal
The most durable and scratch-resistant of all watch crystals, sapphire glass watch crystals are the optimal choice when it comes to watch glass. It is the material of preference for higher-end watch masters like Rolex, Omega, Breitling, and Longines.
One reason sapphire watch crystals are costly is that the tools and processes required to cut and polish sapphire glass are more exclusive. Because it is such an exceptionally hard substance, particular expertise is needed to position sapphire. More common and pliable elements like acrylic do not need as much skill or specialized equipment to mold them.
The main reason sapphire is the go-to choice for higher-end watchmakers is its resilience against scratches. Ranking a 9 on the Mohs scale for hardness, only a diamond can scratch it. However, while it is rare, sapphire watch crystals can still shatter when placed in high-impact situations. For this reason, sport and army-grade watches will be fitted with a more shatterproof material like acrylic. Some professions and hobbies would not make a sapphire watch crystal an ideal choice. If you are a rock climber, engage in other extreme sports, hold a construction-related or on-the-field military position, sapphire may not be the best choice for you. Ordinary, everyday bangs and knocks, even into other metals, will not smash sapphire.
Pros:
- Highest scratch resistance from any other material
- Dial clarity
Cons:
- Higher cost
- Can shatter with heavy impact
- If chipped or cracked, it must be replaced
Ideal for: professionals, luxury watch wearers
Sapphire Coated Crystal and Sapphire Alternatives
A fusion of mineral glass with a coating of sapphire, this “hybrid glass” is marketed as the best of both worlds. It is not as expensive to manufacture and fit as sapphire but boasts nearly equal durability. One of the best and most enduring watch brands, Seiko, manufactures their trademarked version of mineral glass under the copyrighted name Hardlex. Many popular and even exclusive brands began producing it for their most celebrated watch lines. Sapphire-coated mineral crystals became popular when watchmakers realized that to the naked eye, consumers could not differentiate between sapphire glass and the coated versions. The main difference though is that while coated crystals are less likely to shatter, they are not as hard as sapphire, so they are somewhat easier to scratch.
“Krysterna'' is another trademarked name for an exclusive watch crystal. Produced by the prominent watch brand, Stuhrling, this glass is marketed as a better alternative than sapphire. Their “Quality You Can See” tagline hints at the lab-made crystal's discovery. Originally produced as a more shatter-proof and clearer alternative for eyeglasses, Krysterna needed only a minor change in its components to make it an optimal choice for watches. Krysterna, like other sapphire grade alternatives, is lab-created. This makes it easier and less expensive to produce without sacrificing aesthetic quality or durability.
Austrian watchmaker, Jacques Lemans, uses hardened crystex crystal, a similar synthetically produced crystal to showcase his creative watch faces.
Flame fusion crystals, like those from the Invicta brand, are created through the production of synthetic sapphire. In the flame fusion process, oxygen and hydrogen combine under high heat and pressure to incorporate various minerals in powder form. The final result is a synthetic sapphire watch face that is equivalent to genuine sapphire in toughness and durability at a nominal cost.
Pros:
- More cost-effective to produce and fit than sapphire
- Durable and scratch-resistant
- Clarity that is close to sapphire
Cons:
- Not as shatter-resistant as acrylic
Ideal for: mid-range watches, lends a similar look and clarity to the watch face as a higher price tag model
Mineral Watch Crystal
More reasonably priced than sapphire, mineral watch crystals are the choice of entry-level watchmakers across the globe. This variety of glass is most typically in use by brands like Swatch, Calvin Klein, Timex, Tissot, and Casio. Standard, medium-priced watches are almost always fit with mineral crystal. This glass is produced by using tempered glass made from silica, which considerably improves its scratch resistance.
Though mineral crystal glass has better protection than acrylic materials, it has similar properties to regular glass, in that it can still chip, shatter, and scratch.
Mineral crystal is the most common watch crystal for fashion watch labels, as it is economical to manufacture and delivers some scratch resistance.
Pros:
- More scratch resistant than acrylic
- More shatter-proof than sapphire
- Inexpensive to produce
Cons:
- Not as shatterproof as acrylic
- Has a more valuable appearance than acrylic
Ideal for: Fashion brands and mid-to lower-end watches whose consumers still want to rely on more scratch-resistant materials than acrylic.
Acrylic Watch Crystal
The acrylic watch crystal is known in the watch industry under many names. Also known as “Hesalite”, “Perspex”, “Plexiglass”, “Lucite”, and “Acrylite”, acrylic crystal is essentially a special composition of plastic that contours to fit easily over the face of a watch.
Acrylic crystal is frequently a component of low-cost watches, due to its less costly production. This type of watch crystal is also used on retro-inspired watches. As it is easily pliable, watchmakers can develop creative domes with ease. This creates an interesting distortion when looked at from a certain angle. Acrylic watch crystals make a watch lightweight and easy to wear. Many watch buffs entirely prefer it to other watch crystals, as they do not have to worry about having to “baby” their treasured timepiece. Near-impossible-to-break materials are guarding their prize possession. A debate among watch lovers about acrylic crystals tends towards the aesthetic. Some watch owners prefer the look of acrylic, while others think it cheapens their timepiece.
While acrylic watch crystals are easy to maneuver and very affordable, their softness is also susceptible to scratches. But, because of its flexibility, it is surprisingly resistant to impacts that would result in shattering. The types of acrylic brand names mentioned earlier are variants of acrylic that possess assorted features, but overall very similar performance.
Although more lower priced brands tend to use acrylic watch crystals, vintage Rolex sports watches also include this durable material. Omega even chose acrylic for their Speedmaster watch that was worn by the astronaut Buzz Aldrin on the first trip to the moon. Acrylic crystal was chosen to avoid the possibility of broken crystals floating around in space should the watch break.
Pros:
- Inexpensive
- Impact-resistant
- Damages are fixable- light scratches are buffed out by polishing
- Lightweight
Cons:
- Easily scratched and marked
- Multiple scratches can distort dial visibility
Ideal for: Low-cost watches, retro watches.
It's All About The Wearer
No matter what your watch displays about your personal style, the watch crystal can make a big difference in the enjoyment and durability of a timepiece. Determining how and where their watch will be worn, most buyers will opt for the highest scratch resistance material within their budget. Bottom line- scratches aren't pretty.
Of course, for those who use heavy machinery or engage in active sports, scratches won't be as important as a watch's durability and strength under physical pressure. Understanding the different materials of watch crystals and their benefits can greatly enhance your watch purchase and ownership experience.
